Sunday, October 29, 2017

Exploring Windhoek

10/29/17 Exploring Windhoek


Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia, occupies a wide valley between the bush-covered hills of the Central Highlands. Our first stop in the historic area of Windhoek is the Independence Memorial Museum, honoring the anti-colonial resistance and national liberation struggle of Namibia. Built interestingly in March 2014 by a North Korea firm (Mansudae Overseas Projects), it is located on Robert Mugabe Avenue (in honor of a time when he actually did something good for the common people instead of slaughtering them). Talk about irony!

The Museum if is flanked by 2 statues - the one at the main entrance honoring Sam Nujoma and on the other side the Genocide Statue (Also built by Mansudae from North Korea). 



The Sam Nujoma statue shows him holding a copy of the Constituency Book (The Constitution of Namibia).  

The Genocide Statue, just south of the Nujoma Memorial, depicts the "untold hardships and suffering" inflicted by the Schutztruppe (the German empire colonial troops from 1904-07).




The Memorial Museum consists of 5 stories in a triangular glassed structure. It encompasses a chronological history of the "Colonial Oppression" (1st floor); "Liberation" (2nd floor); and "Road to Independence" (3rd floor). The 4th floor is the NIMS restaurant with a spectacular panoramic view of the city. Only problem is if you want to take photos from this incredible location it will cost you $150 Namibian dollars ($11.50 US).



This sculpture was so very expressive and powerful.



Just across the street from the Sam Nujoma statue is Christ Church (Christuskirche), a historic landmark Lutheran Church designed by Gottlieb Redecker from August 1907 - October 1910, following the wars between the Germans and the Khoikhoi, Herero and Owambo.

The Church is constructed of quartz sandstone from Avis Dam, Carrara marble from Italy and the clock and roof came from Germany. Its 3 architectural styles - Neo Romanesque, Art Nouveau and Gothic revival make it look like a giant gingerbread house. 

The colorful stained glass lead windows were installed with the wrong side facing in until a tourist in the late 1990s pointed it out, so they were correctly reinstalled the other way 2 year later. 

Window bars were added in 1960 after the clapper of the main bell loosened, smashed through a window and landed on the street.



Christ Church






Our next stop was Katutura (Herero for "we have no permanent place"), one of Windhoek's vibrant black townships. We enjoyed walking through their weekend market sampling local food and drinks (including worms - their main source of protein since meat is too expensive).



Clockwise from upper left: belly up to the grill for delicious beef pulled with quick fingers from the grill, dipped in coarse salt, BBQ sauce and dried red peppers - EXCELLENT! Colleen samples some beef; Lloyd, our tour guide, purchases some worms for us to eat for lunch (crunchy, not bad, but DO NOT taste like chicken); 
slaughtered cattle head and legs busily gathering flies 
(time to consider being vegetarian); 
and bulk goods everywhere - beans, worms (2 baskets on the right); 
and coarse salt (one of the major industries in Namibia). 





We headed back to our hotel after a shebeen (traditional lunch) with the locals where I added another local beer to my "been there, drank that" list. This was Windhoek Draught - very nice and perfect with this meal.

We enjoyed a nice chunk of free time before heading out to Joe's Beerhouse - one of two highly rated Windhoek restaurants according to not only Trip Advisor but the locals as well. I was so glad we went because I really wanted to try it, and since it was not particularly safe to walk from our hotel to Joe's, Lloyd made a reservation for those who wanted to go there (everyone supported my suggestion) or to the other very good, more upscale Kubata restaurant. 


 I apologize for the blurry photo. It was getting dark 
and a downpour was just starting to gather steam 
so I just clicked and ran inside to protect my camera from the elements.


The main entrance to Joe's.

Look away from my choice of entree and try not to see all the fried calamari, onion rings and french fries (to say nothing of the creamy dipping sauce of spicy aoli).
(Not pictured: local Hansa beer and local Tafel beer)
Hey, I'm on vacation!





Back to the Hotel Thule to lay in bed and listen to the fat crinkle...

Tomorrow we fly to the outstanding Sossusvlei sand dunes and Namib Desert. Will be doing some serious hiking in the sand, trying to shed the weight gain from today. We will have the option of sleeping out on the rooftop of our lodge under an incredible starlit sky. So of course you know I will be doing that:)

BTW, we are about to enter the zone of no internet. Will continue the blog when there is a connection.



Johannesburg to Windhoek

10/28/17  Johannesburg to Windhoek

Our Namibian Adventure Begins... 

The first thing I needed to do when I reached my room was turn off the A/C and open the window. It was absolutely freezing in the room and it was so cold outside that I only needed to crack the window for a slight breeze. Unfortunately the room next door must have been a smoking room because at that point it smelled like they were smoking in my room - which I cannot tolerate - so I had to close the window.

The next morning, during breakfast, the fire alarm went off - a first in all my years of travel - and of course I thought the fire was in the room next to mine, but thankfully it was not. Apparently someone's hair dryer started smoking, so we had to evacuate to the parking lot until we received the all-clear signal a few minutes later.

We were all anxious and excited to begin our trek to Windhoek, capital city of Namibia. We left the hotel for the airport at 10 AM for our noon flight.  I absolutely love these smaller international flights because alcohol is free and sometimes you even get a meal (we need to learn how to emulate these fantastic ideas instead of pretzels and cookies. And don't even get me started on the extinction of peanuts...)

After the disappointing meals we were served on our international Delta flight, during this short 2-hour flight we were served an absolutely delicious penne pasta with a creamy mushroom/bacon sauce that was out of this world! It was so delicious I would have loved to have a copy of the recipe. Had my first local Namibian beer -Castle - very nice.




Namibia in a nutshell:

  • Located in SW Africa 
  • Bordered by Angola and Zambia to the north, and Botswana and South Africa to the east
  • Home to 4 different landscapes: coastal Namib Desert (oldest and driest desert in the world); the Kalahari Desert; the Kavango and Caprivi tropical forests, rivers and savannahs
  • Home to diverse wildlife including a significant cheetah population
  • One of the most sparsely populated countries in the world with just over 2 million people in a country larger than France and Great Britain combined.
  • Namibia was the first country in the world to incorporate the protection of the environment into its constitution.
  • The capital city is Windhoek (vin took)

Windhoek in a nutshell:
  • Capital and largest city in Namibia
  • Located in the geographic center of Namibia, upon a plateau 5600 ft. above sea level
  • Approximate population 350,000+
  • Settled by Jonker Afrikaner in 1840
  • Founded a second time in 1890 by German Curt von Francois
  • Achieved independence from colonial rule in 1990

Our first stopover once we arrived in Windhoek was the beautiful Hotel Thule, where we were greeted by the office staff with champagne. I was last to receive my room key, and when the manager handed it to me she said I was getting the best room (in her opinion). I thought she was just feeling sorry for me, but when I opened the door to my MASSIVE room, I thought I died and went to heaven! Now this was a room built for entertaining! I had a spacious counter; plenty of wine glasses (but sadly no wine); 2 very cushy chairs; a king-size bed (actually 2 twins pushed together - very common in Africa); and an oversized bathroom with a double sink, shower and deep tub.  Just outside the windows was a small mountain covered in scrub grass, small acacia trees and rock - a perfect place for the native birds and their tweeting.



Stunning bougainvillea!

Some views of Windhoek below.

My wonderful room!




For the first time during our welcome meeting we discover that all 11 of us are Sir Edmund Hillary Club members - 3 or more OAT trips (I have traveled with OAT 11 times with 2 more trips in the hopper for next year). Also, we had no one with dietary restrictions - not even a single vegetarian - not bad for a bunch of old folks (haha).

Once we finished our meeting we traveled into town for our welcome dinner at Nice restaurant. Interestingly enough, we had 2 choices of entree - game or fish - with the game being grilled oryx (the large antelope and national animal depicted on the Namibian coat of arms), and the fish being kingklip. More interestingly, was that only 2 out of our group of 12 ordered the fish. Now I'm pretty sure that, other than our guide Lloyd, none of us have ever enjoyed grilled oryx, but we were "game to try the game" (haha - hey, don't forget I'm still attempting to overcome jet lag here). If you, like most Americans, have no idea of what the heck an oryx is, I have supplied a before and after photo for your pleasure.

Before...the stately oryx of Namibia...


After...our chargrilled oryx loin with poached pear, rocket pilaf flavored rice 
and selected wine reduction sauce.
Chewy but delicious!



Friday, October 27, 2017

Sarasota to Atlanta to Johannesburg

10/26/17 -10/27/17                             

Sarasota to Atlanta to Johannesburg


Absolutely perfect travel day(s)...


  • Both flights with on-time departures and early arrivals
  • Delightful and very young-looking South African seatmates, Jen and Geoff, (28 and 29, but looked like they were 18) on the 14.75 hour flight to Johannesburg
  • Through customs and baggage area within 45 minutes
  • Settling into the Protea Hotel O.R.Tambo (Airport) within 30 minutes later. (Stayed here during our Ultimate Africa safari in 2011 - very cool and modern hotel)
Not to long ago a friend asked me if I saw a difference between U.S. flight crews compared to international flight attendants and I really had to think about that question long and hard. On this flight from Atlanta to Johannesburg (with a Delta Atlanta crew) I did notice the differences he pointed out.  Gone were the anorexic young models; taking their places were men and women of all ages, all body types, all nationalities and all persuasions.  Some were not as attentive to their looks as their predecessors and some were not very friendly. 

Case in point on this flight were the 2 ladies who usually served us most of our beverages and food. Both appeared to be at least 40; they were definitely not svelte; and thankfully, they had different personalities when it came to serving drinks especially. The nice one was a large woman with the pointy eyeglasses you would associate with a librarian. We, in our row, especially appreciated her generous pours of red wine whenever the beverage cart passed through, and she was very kind and attentive. The other one? Well we'll ignore her rude behaviour since I do like to focus on the positive when I blog...

Time to crash and overcome jet lag before our 2-hour flight to Windhoek at noon tomorrow. It will be heaven to shower, brush teeth and sleep in a bed tonight.